Ferragamo Reimagines the 1940s Skirt Suit for Spring 2027

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

This season, Maximilian Davis began with the fashions of the 1940s. He studied the uniforms women wore as they entered the workforce, the kind of skirt suits that come with severe shoulder pads and ultra-nipped waists. “I just felt it wasn't modern for today,” he said backstage. “I really wanted to create this relaxed silhouette for those pieces.” He stripped out all of that manufactured structure, using the cut and seams of fabric to create shape instead.

His first look showed a coordinating skirt suit rendered in grey mélange with sandy undertones. The double-breasted jacket featured sleeves cut to arc from shoulder to forearm, creating a rounded silhouette. The matching skirt had a classic, knee-length pencil shape. And both pieces were belted at the waist where they met. Despite all of those mechanics, the effect was sophisticated but still rather light.

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

The life and work of Lee Miller, the model turned surrealist photographer turned World War II correspondent, warranted significant space on Davis’s mood board as well. He took specific interest in the time she spent in Egypt in the late ‘30s, when she wore desert hues and safari-inspired silhouettes. A number of utilitarian, military-style pockets made their way onto Davis’s skirts, dresses, and outerwear. And his color palette ranged from rich ochres and sandy beiges to chocolate browns and rich greens—until a watery blue broke up the neutrals.

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

Miller spent a great deal of time as the romantic partner, mentee, and collaborator to the artist Man Ray. “There are a lot of photographs about that intimate time they spent together,” Davis mused. “I really wanted to make sure that intimacy and sensuality was incorporated through fabrication, embroidery, through transparency as well.” You felt that sensuality in the soft drape of a blouse with its own scarf attachment and dresses and shirts with silk chiffon creatively looped and billowing at the hems.

LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT

The collection continued into an unlikely rotation of latex that coated bodycon tank dresses, those same skirt suits, and belted trench coats with voluminous skirts. Here, things got a bit freakier than what we’re used to from Davis, exploring a grittier side of female sensuality. You could see this in the form-fitting ladylike skirt suits and dresses rendered in sleek, buttery leather, sometimes suede or even with a croc effect.

Throughout his tenure at Ferragamo, Davis has courted a legacy of decadence in his ready-to-wear. There’s often a certain headiness to his collections, especially when shown within the speakeasy-style set he’s been embracing at Milan’s Triennale art and design museum the past few seasons. But that indulgence is always streamlined, rendered in materials that appear light as air. And in those slick and sophisticated silhouettes, no fabric is ever wasted. It’s femininity, even sensuality, without encumbrance. It’s easy dressing—and isn’t that what women really want?

Ferragamo Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2027

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